Javea, Moraira, Spain


Hello!

It’s been a while. How are you? Three weeks in Spain and back for one. All the necessary post – holiday processes like unpacking, laundry, ironing, food shopping et al, are done, and designed to bring you back with a thud. Yet, it’s incredible how easily we all have slipped into the old ways – the crazy driving, swearing at the heat and taking our preferred positions across the sofa. I am precious glad to have air conditioning back, along with my uber comfy bed and massive, fluffy pillows. Yet, I still feel I am on holiday mode, distinctly lacking mojo, thinking of the food I already miss and the natural colours bursting everywhere.

We were based north of Alicante on the Costa Blanca, perched on top of a hill between the towns of Javea and Moreira. Javea is a working Spanish town and boasts a walled town surrounding a thick, sturdy, imposing church. This was my favourite place to wander in. The tight alleyways, and low buildings made of big bricks of rough stone, was cool and shaded and you didn’t have too walk far to get a cooling drink. The buildings are well inhabited and looking in sneakily through open doors, the flats are small and dark, decorated with bright blue designs on white tiles. I suspect folk kept their shutters closed during the day, to keep the rooms cool. There were clusters of men and women, sat around a corner on plastic chairs, smoking cigarettes, sipping water and having a natter. They had the habit of going silent as you came by and watched you pass before resuming their chatter, as if they were worried you’d steal their thoughts.

If you glanced overhead, the narrow balconies had the same decorative tiling under the balcony so passer bys have something pretty to look up at. A lack of garden space meant that every balcony was teeming with colourful pots of trailing plants and bright blooms. Ground floor windows had ornate, curved iron railings across them, and doors were furnished with handsome, polished door knockers. Winding alleyways led unexpectedly to open squares where the Madonna, looking down at you from painted wall tiles, could watch people pass the time of day while sipping milky coffees or bitter curtados depending on the time. Wherever a small tree could be planted, it was done and the whole atmosphere felt easy, simple and utterly charming.

The Church itself was a big, solid structure, with a more imposing that welcome feel, unused canons laid at the bottom of the stairs. The carved stone work was weathered, blunt around the edges, betraying it’s years. I couldn’t have a wander inside as a service was going on. I liked the fact that this strong structure hadn’t stood the test of time in vain and that it was a source of comfort still, to those who seek it.

At night, this place comes to life. The Spaniards are very late diners and as we were leaving you would see the flock of people wandering in, dressed smartly, with a careless fashionable air and several generations mixed in one group. Restaurants hang strings of lights across the alley and the whole feel is moody, romantic and pretty. Food wise, you can take your pick of several, excellent tapa places, stylish, contemporary food or easy and simple rustic platefuls. Not an egg, ham and chip place in sight.

From left. Chopitos- tiny squid or octopus battered and deep fried, Mushrooms sauteed in olive oil, garlic and parsley, Bouquerones – Pickled anchovies, Albondigas – delicious meatballs in a sweet-savoury sauce, Garlic Prawns with tiny dried chillies and finally Clams, cooked with wine and garlic, finished off with parsley. 

Moreira was different. Developed predominantly along the coastline, it is a town that’s geared for the tourists. However, the wise local council forbid any structure above three stories, thereby maintaining a lovely, simple, unspoilt feel to the place. There is more shopping to be had here, good, quality things mixed the usual holiday tack. You could stumble from one eatery to another but our favourite was a place called Terra Vina, which sat back from the main street. It was quieter, nicely decorated with plenty of overhead shade from brolleys and handsome trees. The tapas was different from the traditional offerings but excellent. On a date night, (my in-laws had the kids, hoorah!) The Scotsman and I headed down there, drank gorgeous Rosados and picked and ate in comfort and total ease for around three hours. Dates wrapped with bacon and stuffed with foie gras, roasted quails eggs, goats cheese battered and served cold with honey and balsamic vinegars, spicy chorizos baked with broad beans, boquerones (pickled anchovies) with chives and olives all served with bread and vampire warding garlic allioli are just some of the things chosen off their menu. I will so, go back.

Another cracker is Ca Pepe, a hidden gem. Word travelled on the excellence of this restaurant and we were booked to celebrate my in-laws anniversary. The chef-owner Alan Jenkins, worked at The Ivy and decided to bring his talent to this corner of Spain. To say the food is excellent, seems a poor, pale compliment. I cannot restrain his repertoire into a strict  cuisine. He uses the local Spanish ingredients such as Morcilla (a blood sausage, made with pine nuts, sherry and spices – just delicious), chorizo and the abundant seafood available, mixing them up with spices like coriander and cumin, alongside reworked British classics like cauliflower cheese. My piece of fish, was thick, incredibly fresh and cooked to utter perfection. The salsa he served with it was sweet, tangy and perfumed with the floral, citrussy flavour of coriander seed. I was mucho impressed! I could go on and on, but if you ever find yourself in this corner of Spain, eating here will make your holiday, as it did mine.

All the Spanish towns have a weekly market. Oh the words excite me. You have the usual stalls selling paella pans, crockery, cheap swimsuits and demonic looking dollies. However, the main reason the locals go here is for the fresh produce. You cannot know what it felt like to see fresh, good quality produce laid out in front of you. For that, you would have to witness the withered, drooping offerings lining the crates of Doha’s supermarkets. I don’t need words for this, the pictures tell you the story. Donut peaches, cherries, pineapples, grapes, all shapes of tomatoes, prune plums, huge reams of garlic, dried meats, dried fruits, candied fruits, spices, honey………oh and a churros truck (no photo as I was too busy stuffing the churros and chocolate sauce!)

 

Finally, there remains little else to say. We’ve been to this area three years in a row and never come back disappointed. Knowing the area well makes things easier for us with the kids. With such foodie delights around to tempt, please and satisfy and long, sprawling shallow beaches, the decision to return is never reconsidered.

If you have made it to the end of this post, well done! It’s huge! I’m glad to be back though and getting myself, slowly, into the kitchen. A big thank you, to Jo and Thanh for their gorgeous posts while I was away.

Adios, for now.


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41 comments

  1. Roger Dsouza

    Superb !!!

  2. I’ve got to hand it to you.. you really know how to make one jealous!! absolutely beautiful clicks… good to have you back.. although i’ve turned a horrible shade of green after this post of yours!!!!!

  3. Jean

    How do some places just get it SO RIGHT? (and others, with no lack of resources, so wrong?) I mean the style, the lifestyle, the rhythm of life; not just the availability of doughnut peaches! I love the lights across the laneway and the elegant hand door-knocker.
    Beautiful place. Fabulous photos.

    • Thanks Jean love. Might you, Spain does have it’s sore points – Benidorm may be a haven for some, but it did not float my boat at all! Glad to see that the councils have taken heed and developed the surrounding areas with taste and refinement, and yet keeping that casual, relaxed feel that’s evident all around the place. You can’t help but go with that rhythm. The door knockers are my favourite too!

  4. Sam

    Welcome back and a blog definately worth the wait for….
    Wow Carrie, what a pleasure it was to be able to have an insight into your holiday. Fabulous write up, the photos captured the real life and heart of the place and I absolutely loved the innOcence and normality a country should be. I can totally relate to you on this front, as I found my holiday had the same wonderful delights.
    Truly fabulous, look forward to seeing you very soon ;)

  5. Gorgeous photos! (As always…) And I’m glad you got some good vacation eating in :)

    • Oh a holiday isn’t one without the eats Allison, that’s a sure fire way to get under the skin of a country, right? The produce is so good – shopping at Doha is a woeful experience by comparison! I shouldn’t compare but I can’t help it!

  6. Amazing :D. I’ve just spent 2 weeks in Spain myself, isn’t it the most incredible country? I really want to go back already…

    • How lovely! Whereabouts were you? I love the place and the people are so easy going, helpful, chilled out even! Sunday mornings were fabulous as I loved sitting at the local cafe, watching women who have just attended Mass, dressed well with their pearls and bracelets, sit and have cafe con leches, tostados y marmalada and a swig of something else too! They were so vibrant in the way they chatted, all loud voices, hands swiping the air, passionate tones..almost, almost as theatrical as Indians! I felt right at home :-D

      • We flew to Madrid and went to a wedding in Navalmoral de la Sierra (roughly 2 hours west of Madrid). My girlfriend’s brother got married to his Spanish fiance – they live in Madrid and her hometown is Navalmoral. We go there every year. That’s exactly what it’s like in Navalmoral – absolutely incredible… though I like my cafe con leche with a little hielo :D

  7. Welcome back, we missed you!! How lovely, you had a wonderful holiday. Loving the dinning out arrangement in the lanes under soft lights, so very romantic. The food (specially chopitos..)looks yummy-licious too. And the weekly market photo takes the cake….how difficult it would have been not to buy fresh produce? :)

    • I was KICKING myself! :( I didn’t cook for the three weeks I was there, which truly, was a welcome change! But seeing that produce at the end of my stay, and I was desperately wanting to purchase and cook! I bought fruits for us for the few days left, oh, sensationally juicy, slobber. And nuts, bags and bags of them! Oh and heaps of chorizo, dried and fresh and I have been cooking with those..hope to get a post out with them.

      That particular part of the Javea Old Town is my favourite and there is a cracking wee restaurant tucked in there, under the lights. There are no shortage of good eats, whether you have slim or fat pockets!

  8. I’ve never been to Javea or Moraira but your photos I think I will enjoy visiting those towns. Thanks for sharing it :)

  9. Breathtaking – every last pixel of this post utterly breathtaking :)

  10. George & Irene

    Hi Carrie – So good , so very very god – should be the starting block for your first ” hard cover ” foodie book –
    ” Rural Spain with a Scotsman two kids and the inlays ! ” ha ha – What a very clever and talented daughter in law we have ! – Now remember we want to keep the area of Javea & Moraria our little secret ! !
    Love to all – Mum & Dad x x x x

  11. Karen Farr

    Wow Carrie! Fabulous, I feel like I’ve been there with you!..

  12. The photos are gorgeous! I wish I’m back in Europe right now!

  13. Welcome back! :-) Oh, these photographs are STUNNING! The picture of the cherries, WOW! The Spanish market sounds like my idea of heaven.

    • Thanks Nickki! Oh it was wonderful that market…you wouldn’t need to shop at the supermarkets and as each town has a weekly one you aren’t waiting in between. The cherries I can report, tasted as good as they looked!

  14. wow… really nice pics and amazing post…… God when will I visit Spain???

  15. My goodness, such beautiful photos! Soon I’ll be in Italy and I’m going to try and get my act together when it comes to photography. Really very stunning!

  16. Rushi!

    Welcome back home Carrie!!!! You have a way with words and pics and I was transported to Spain instantly. Don’t you just love summer holidays?

  17. That last photo is breathtaking. Your post is so tempting but still sold on Italy ! Puglia could be a rival, have you been ?

    • Thank you! The scenery round about where we were was fantastic! Now Italy; I have never been. But I really hope to remedy that in the years ahead, if we can get past Spain. I keep telling my husband that food would be no problem there as the kids adore pasta! Soon I hope, soon. Are you away this year to Puglia?

  18. Stunning travel photos, Carrie! I feel like I was there myself! Sadly, I have never had the opportunity to visit Spain, despite it being only a few hours away. I do adore Spanish food and absolutely love those shots from the markets! Hopefully, one of these days, I’ll get to visit this beautiful country. I love how you have a “regular” place to go to for summer – there’s something nice about familiarity, I think.

    • Ha! You the mistress of travel shots….thanks :-) Yes, I agree with you, I never really thought of the familiarity aspect that way, but it is comforting because we know exactly what we will get out of it. Having said that I would like to travel more around Spain,,,maybe when the kids are a wee bit older.

  19. Wonderful, just wonderful ! So evocative… Spain is a country with a charm like no other I have ever visited, and i return over and over again. It’s just such a pity I can’t “do heat” ! However, October will see me there again :-)

    • Aww Ms Bobkin, I am glad you approve of the post, I know how much Spain has endeared itself to you. I can understand it completely, there is such an ease there, almost like a suspension in time on some mornings. I wouldn’t enjoy it if it were hotter than it was. I went in September the first year and preferred it cooler, also, it was less heaving with other tourists! But school timings play a part unfortunately. Enjoy it in October! Whereabouts are you headed?

  20. M.N

    The pictures are eye candy! very beautiful and yummy.
    Definatly a worth place to travel!

    http://myfashionfoodstyle.blogspot.co.il/

  21. You have captured the charm and joy of your holiday perfectly! The photos were so lovely. Those donut peaches are just too adorable. Sounds like a onderful time. Thanks so much for sharing.

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